Issue 4 / MAY 2005

HOLA! As the northern hemisphere moves into summertime, Chile's central and southern realms ready themselves for winter and one of her favorite leisure pastimes, skiing. World-renowned slopes and world-class resorts define Chile's ski infrastructure. Slopes range from world-class Portillo, not far from Santiago, where Olympian hopefuls from around the globe often train, to the graceful skirts of still-active volcanoes in the southern central region. The ski season is long even in the central region where it runs usually from June into October, hitting its peak from early July into August.

In this month's Bienvenidos a Chile!

- Feature: Skiing Chile This Summer - "A day without wine is a day without sunshine." - New! The first in an in-depth series on Chile's dazzling wines - Santiago Snapshot - New - Since You Last Heard From Us - Celebrities in Chile, The Grandfather of Soul in Chile. - Postcards Home - Bouquet - Chilean Cuisine - Trivia - Holidays in May - Clase de Español - Book of the Month -"Chasing Che..." - Al Cine (At the Movies) - Machuca - P.S.

Valle Nevado (Image by www.ctsturismo.cl )

Skiing Chile This Summer

Extols one lifelong denizen, "You can ski in the Andes all morning, then enjoy a fresh seafood dinner beside the Pacific that evening."  That's true enough much of the year. Much of what makes Chile so attractive to residents and visitors alike are the plethora of places to go in whatever direction with things to do when you get there - and reliable, safe ways to travel. Slopes range from world-class Portillo, not far from Santiago, where Olympian hopefuls from around the globe often train, to the graceful skirts of still-active volcanoes in the southern central region. The ski season is long even in the north where it runs usually from June into October, hitting its peak from early July into August. www.gochile.cl Valle Nevado (52 km from Santiago, 2860 to 3670 msnm) A few km beyond El Colorado, Farellones and Parva, the soaring rooflines of the Valle Nevado hotels symbolize the world-class resort destination that it is. Originally built and owned by a European group, it is now wholly Chilean owned. The very exclusive Hotel Valle Nevado, with "ski-in, ski-out" feature, has 53 rooms, all with balconies. The largest of the three and a little farther from the slopes, the slightly more modest Hotel Puerta del Sol has 124 rooms. The most economical and farthest from the slopes, the Hotel Tres Puntas has 95 rooms. Guests share access to the complex's 8 restaurants. www.vallenevado.com

The world-renowned ski resort of Portillo (pohr-TEE'-yoh, 2590 to 3330 meters above sea level) is some 145 km north of Santiago. Its stunning location, cradled in a valley on the western end of Laguna del Inca, offers unparalleled runs on both sides.  www.skiportillo.com "In the summer, in the Andes, life is to be enjoyed. In a ski world where one base village can be eerily reminiscent of the last, where Saturday's cheeseburger is virtually indistinguishable from the previous Sunday's, and where even the best terrain can all too easily blur into a featureless expanse of white, skiers need a break. Fortunately, there are still a few resorts that are distinctly - and gloriously - different. And then there are those that stand alone. Chile's Portillo, laid out at the edge of the stunning Lake of the Incas and ringed by jagged Andean peaks, stands alone literally..." (Kendall Hamilton, the editor-in-chief of SKI Magazine)

PORTILLO ski resort ((Image by www.ctsturismo.cl )

Of the four ski locales closest to Santiago, El Colorado y Farellones (fah-rah-YOH'-nays, 38 km from Santiago, 2662 to 3630 msnm), although separate, tend to be referred to as one and more recently nearby La Parva (42 km from Santiago, 2430 to 3333 msnm) is often included as part of the overall complex. However, they are not truly within walking distance of one another. All are yearround residential villages with seasonal ski resort amenities and as such exude a certain charm of community. Combined, these three sites cover over 26,400 acres and offer 70 miles of runs accessible via some 40 lifts. In our next issue, we'll cover Chile's paramount heliskiing opportunities as well as skiing locales to the south of Santiago, including world-class Termas de Chillán (www.termaschillan.cl), the Centro de Esqui Cerro Mirador overlooking the Straits of Magellan, and the lifts on the slopes of soaring volcanoes, active and not.

"A meal without wine is a day without sunshine."
As summer slides slowly into autumn, Chile's well-educated, highly trained vintners, many fortified with expertise honed over several generations, study their vineyards more closely than ever. Armies of workers bide their time, anticipating the right moment to begin the picking. Vats sparkle in the sunshine, well-scrubbed barrels await in cool, dark cellars. According to Chile's land registry for 2003, some 450 viñas sprawl just over 110,000 hectares (264,000 acres) clustered among the hills and valleys of four of the country's Regiones south of Santiago, throughout much of the capital city's own Región Metropolitana, and in the adjacent Región de Valparaíso. Farther north of Santiago, viñas appear in the Valle Limarí and the mystical Valle de Elquí in the Región de Coquimbo, the latter with one lonely vineyard, Falernia.
	Santa Rita wineards

The vast central valley, as the southern regions are known collectively, stretches from Santiago southward beyond the renowned Río Bío Bío as far as the north bank of the Río Cautín, just north of the city of Temuco. The central valley is actually a broad plain defined by the formidable Andes to the east and irregular coastal mountain ranges to the west that protect it from Pacific Ocean weather. Valle Limarí roughly encircles the city of Ovalle, 410 kilometers north of Santiago, and Viña Falernia stretches eastward from the coastal city of La Serena, 55 kilometers farther north, along the Valle de Elqui to the charming town of Vicuña. In the next several issues of ¡Bienvenidos a Chile! we will introduce you to all of Chile's 12 wine regions, taking a closer look at the wines produced in each as well at other leisure travel opportunities among them. As an introductory overview, they follow, listed north to south, with their Regiones Administrativas. Chile is divided into 13 Regiones Administrativas, including the Región Metropolitana, each with a "capital" - or "principal" - city as its hub. In day-to-day conversation, most of the Regíones are only infrequently referred to by name, much as states in the U.S. or provinces in Canada might be. These 13 Regiones Administrativas should not be confused with the 12 arbitrarily identifiable wine regions, which are: -Valle Elqui and Valle Limarí, IV Región de Coquimbo, mentioned above; -Valle Aconcagua and Valle Casblanca, north and west of Santiago, respectively, V Región Valparaíso; -Valle del Maipo, virtually surrounding Santiago, Región Metropolitana; -Valle Cachapoal and Valle Colchagua (below), which combined make up the Valle Rapel, VI Región del Libertador General Bernardo O'Higgins; -Valle de Curicó, de Maule, de Itata, and de Bío Bío, VII Región del Maule and VII Región del Bío Bío; -and finally, the southernmost, Valle de Malleco, with a single viña, Soldesol, tucked into a corner of the IX Región de la Araucanía. www.winesofchile.org, www.vinasdechile.cl

(Next issue:  A Closer Look, Valle del Maipo, Región Metropolitana)

New this month: Santiago Snapshot Santiago, Chile's vibrant cosmopolitan capital city, is the principal port of entry for the great majority of visitors. Many leisure travelers are headed elsewhere in the country, but Santiago is indeed a destination unto itself. Among its many cultural and historic highlights is the not-to-be-missed Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino housed in the historic Casa Real de Aduana (Royal Customs House) one block west along Merced from the southwest corner of the Plaza de Armas. Closed for major renovation in 1999, it is world-class in the presentation and lighting of its exhibits, which cover four and a half millennia of South America's pre-Hispanic past. Its bookstore carries a fine variety of pertinent publications, many bi-lingual or in English. Its small café is a delight unto itself. Entrance is Bandera 361. Daily Tues.-Sat., Tel. 695-3851 www.precolombino.cl

Cerro Santa Lucia, famous landmark in Santiago.

Since You Last Heard From Us .

Celebrities in Chile

Last month, Chile welcomed a small group of globally-recognizable celebrities, headed up by Robert Kennedy, Jr., accompanied by his family, all traveling in support of an initiative for a new World Heritage site in the Río Futaleufú valley. The group included actor-comedian Dan Aykroyd, "Seinfield" actress Julia Louis-Dreyfus, U.S. tennis champion John McEnroe, and daughter of actor Kevin Costner, Annie.

Kennedy, environmental affairs lawyer, is president of the Waterkeeper Alliance (Alliance for Water Defense) and adviser to the National Resources Defense Council. "It's the second time I've been to Futaleufú," he said. "I've never seen a river so magnificent, not only for rafting, but also for its abounding beauty, rapids, cleanliness, fish, climate and few insects." Besides Chile's natural beauty, Dan Aykroyd was impressed by the country's security and its infrastructure of highways and bridges. "This is my favorite place as of now. Chile is a first-world country, and I can't wait to travel the Carretera Austral by car," he said.  The trip was organized by Earth River, a travel agency specializing in river trips around the world. Last year the agency arranged for actress Glenn Close to travel down the Futaleufú and has booked Kevin Costner for next year.

Rafting the 'Futa' River, Los Lagos Region.

The Grandfather of Soul in Chile In March, at the tender age of 72, James Brown, godfather of soul's infectious melodies and funky beats sound as fresh as ever, played a selection of his 116 international hits in a one-off concert in Viña del Mar. James Brown at the Quinta Vergara, Viña del Mar. www.canal13.cl

Postcards Home
Hi, Guys! These colorful houses on the shoreline in Castro on the island of Chiloé are called Palafitos (pah-lah-FEE'-tohs). At high tide, the water rises right up to the edges of their decks. When we get back, we must tell you about the amazing wooden churches here, among UNESCO's three World Heritage Sites in Chile.The Chiloé Archipelago is near Puerto Montt (about 1000 km south of Santiago), the northern end of Chile's Carretera Austral. Miss you all! C&P
Churches of Chiloé Island, Los Lagos Region
Dear Folks, This is the Villarica volcano towering over a town of the same name and another town nearby called Pucón, both on the southern edge of a big lake, also called Villarica. We're in the northern sector of Chile's famous lake region, about 700 km south of Santiago, really beautiful countryside with intriguing German heritage dating back into the mid-nineteenth century. We've been eating tons of great food and drinking gallons of fine wines, but we've also been hiking the nearby National Parks, taking pictures of one stunning view after another! See you soon! S&K Villarica Volcano, Araucania Region.

Bouquet Helen & Bob Cleveland spent most the month of March, 2005, traveling Santiago-Valparaiso-Santiago-Puerto Montt-Lake Varas-Chiloe -Puerto Montt-Puerto Natales-Torres del Paine-Puerto Natales, then into Argentina. "Turismo Milodon arranged lodging, tours, car rentals, boat trips and all internal transport . [They] did an excellent job and also had a number of good ideas during the trip planning phase. . We were very pleased with your recommendation of Valparaiso . It was a very interesting town with lots of good walks and fascinating funicular rides. . Had a lot of fun at El Cinzano [Restaurant] . listening to old (our age) singers!"

Chilean Cuisine
The familiar empanada, simply a folded pie-crust-like "envelope" or shell filled with any number of ingredients, is found throughout South America. One typical Chilean version might include chopped beef and hardboiled egg, onion, olives, and raisins, spiced with chili powder, cumin, oregano and paprika. Traditionally an entrada (ehn-TRAH'-dah, appetizer), it is often large enough for a filling meal. Trivia Much to the chagrin of Chile's many top gourmet chefs, one young traveler to Chile suggested the ubiquitous completo be declared the country's national dish. ¡Que horror! Available virtually everywhere in infinite variety, the completo is a lowly hot dog in a soft bun, loaded with extras such as avocado and tomato and buried in condiments like thick mayonnaise and other artery clogging stuff. While "Mickey D" is rapidly moving in, the completo will not be displaced anymore than will the even more deeply entrenched empanada.

Festivities in Chile

May 21, 1879, Combate Naval de Iquique (Navy Day) The Batalla de Iquique, between Chilean and Peruvian navies early in the War of the Pacific (1879-83), is recognized in honor of the extraordinary valor of Captain Arturo Prat who died on that date. Although it was a Peruvian victory, this off-shore battle reenergized Chile to final victory. Congress opens for the next session on this day and the President gives his "State of the Nation" address. It is an officially recognized holiday. 21 de mayo and Arturo Prat are common place names throughout the country. www.armada.cl

Clase de Español para Mayo .

andarivel (ahn-dah-ree-VEHL') . ski lift botas de esqui (BOH'-tahs day eh-SKI') . ski boots cancha (KAHN'-chah) . slopes, hills (Can.) esqui (eh-SKI') . ski polvo (POHL'-voh) . powder valle (VAH'-yay). valley viña (VEEN'-yah . vineyard viñero (vee-NYEHR'-oh) . vintner, wine grower vino blanco (VEE'-noh BLAHN'-koh) . white wine vino tinto  (VEE'-noh TEEN'-toh) . red wine

Modismos (moh-DEEZ'-mohs) para Mayo . slang for May:

al tiro (AL TEE'-roh) . quickly beatle . turtleneck (shirt, sweater) cacharro (cah-CHAH'-roh) . car

Book of the Month
There are travel publications and then there are publications that enhance travel. Here's our recommended Book of the Month:  "Chasing Che: A Motorcycle Journey in Search of the Guevara Legend" by Patrick Symmes (Vintage Books, NY, NY, 2000)   "New York writer Patrick Symmes embarks on motorcycle tracing Guevara's route through Argentina, Bolivia, Peru, Chile, and Cuba, seeking insight into what Guevara experienced and what his political movement wrought. . Beautifully written, the stories that unfold here reflect the complex contradiction that endures in Latin America three long decades after Ernesto "Che" Guevara's death." -- Melissa Rossi, Amazon.com   Patrick Symmes himself writes: "Che is easy to love. What a great spirit of compassion and daring. You don't have to admire his politics to like him as a human being."   "Chasing Che . " is clearly the ideal follow-up read to the recently released and highly regarded film, "Motorcycle Diaries", virtually all of which was filmed on location.
Al Cine - To the movies!
Menemsha Films has just released Machuca, this year's official Chilean Oscar selection from filmmaker Andrés Wood (Loco Fever, Football Stories), in Los Angeles, following its successful run in New York. "Richly human in focus, the drama steadily cranks up its political and emotional charge."      -- Variety "Both sweet and stringent, attuned to the wonders of childhood as well as its cruelty and  terror."      -- The New York Times "You don't have to know Chile's bloody history to be moved by the poignant new film, Machuca, the first movie made by a Chilean about the country's 1973 military coup."      -- The New York Post "Tender, funny and smart, Machuca IS THAT RARE DISCOVERY, an incisive political parable that also succeeds as a drama of sharply drawn individuals..."      -- Wall Street Journal

Set against the fall of Salvador Allende's Socialist regime in 1973, Machuca is the potent coming-of-age story inspired by Wood's own experiences growing up in Chile.  The film, which premiered at the 2004 Cannes Film Festival as a Directors' Fortnight selection, was an official selection at the Edinburgh, Montreal, San Francisco and AFI/LA film festivals. A reserved boy from a well-to-do family living in an up-scale Santiago suburb, Gonzalo Infante (Matias Quer) seems to live a perfect, pampered life. . His exclusive private school undergoes an unexpected change when headmaster Father McEnroe (Ernesto Malbran), a liberal-minded priest, offers scholarships to poor indigenous boys from shantytown families in an effort to integrate the two different worlds. While many of his privileged classmates bully the new students, Gonzalo befriends one of the boys, Pedro Machuca (Ariel Mateluna) . Through their friendships, Gonzalo discovers a thrilling but wildly complicated world outside his own sheltered life. But just as they begin to get a taste of one another's worlds, the escalating political tension erupts and capsizes the country, leaving the children to suddenly face moral tests far beyond their young capacities. By depicting the events of Allende's overthrow through 11-year-old Gonzalo's unflinching eyes, Wood presents a humanistic portrait of the politicization of one boy who lost his innocence in history's wake. In the Los Angeles Times Calendar section, among the 60-70 films reviewed in encapsulated summary form in the section entitled NOW PLAYING there are only three films that warrant an asterisk. The asterisk means HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. The three films are "Machuca", "Million Dollar Baby", and "Born Into Brothels" and as you know the latter two won Academy Awards this year. In Los Angeles CALIFORNIA, Machuca has been playing at the Laemmle's Fairfax, Encino Town Center, The Pasadena Playhouse, and The Paseo Camarillo. Is also waiting for distribution all over the US. 120 minutes. In Spanish with English subtitles. Not Rated. http://www.machucacine.cl/photos-high/

P.S. "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only a page." -- St. Augustine of Hippo

Chile and its people look forward to welcoming you today to the wonders of their yesterdays, to the excitement of their tomorrows.

Archeology. Astronomy. Birding. Indigenous People Visiting. Wine Circuit Touring. Golfing. Tennis. Hot Spring Soaking. Spas. Fjord Cruising. Yacht Sailing. Air Touring. Hot Air Ballooning. Mountain Biking. Climbing. Hiking. Trekking. Mountaineering. Canoeing. Kayaking. Whitewater Rafting. Diving. Paragliding. Skiing. Heliskiing. Camping. Fishing. Horseback Riding. Chile has it all! Click here to forward this email to a friend!

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