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Hola! This time of year, North America looks forward to warm weather and welcome summertime vacations. Meanwhile, the southern hemisphere happily anticipates bracing wintertime weather with its concomitant outdoor activities, like the challenging snow-covered hills and slopes that spell Andean skiing. In Chile, opportunities abound from the environs of Santiago to the Straits of Magellan. Last month in Bienvenidos a Chile!, we
presented an overview of Chile's world-renowned wine regions that
blanket over a quarter of a million acres. Beginning with this
issue, and continuing over the next several months, we will
introduce you to each of the 13 wine regions, from
the two sub-regions that make up the Valle Rapel with over 50
viñas to the single viña in the Valle de Elqui to
the north. We'll take "A Closer Look" at the wines they produce, as
well as at leisure travel opportunities among them. Later in the
year, once we've covered them all and you're all Chilean wine
connoisseurs par excellence, we'll offer a quiz
with some modest, but appropriately delectable prizes.
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Bienvenidos a Chile!
Issue 5 /
June 2005
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North American summertime skiing during Chilean wintertime is by no means limited to the renowned resorts of El Colorado y Farallones, La Parva, Portillo, and Valle Nevado near the capital, Santiago. One of Chile's premier all-inclusive ski resorts and the shimmering snow-covered slopes of still-smoking volcanos lie to the south.
But before we head southward, truly pristine powder, accessible only by helicopter, beckons the best. Minutes after an early room service breakfast, experienced skiers can be flying over the bustle of the sprawling capital enroute to virtually private runs high in the Andes.
Heliskiing is relatively new in Chile, but thoroughly trained and experienced pilots and guides, Chilean and European both, have introduced a thrilling new dimension to diehard aficionados of the sport.
Giving new meaning to the phrase "starting at the top", the agile helicopters of Andes Heliski whisk experienced skiers from near-city center Santiago to remote heights for the ultimate in runs down steep virgin slopes near Los Valdés. Andes Heliski includes three French skiing/snowboarding guides and instructors, all trained in Chamonix. Their cutting edge aircraft are bright red Eurocopter B3s, designed and bred for Alpine service.
KL Adventure has explored and skied the Andes for over two decades, creating a strong presence and establishing an unblemished reputation among skiing and high-altitude mountaineering clientele as well as professional colleagues. They bring an exceptional combination of experience and innovation to their newly formed heliski operation, Powder South. www.kladventure.com
Ski Lagunillas, 67 km (40 mi.) southeast of Santiago , is not Portillo or Valle Nevado, but the skiing is challenging as is the unpaved segment of the road beyond San José de Maipo. Lagunillas and the lodges are administered by the Club Andino de Chile. (See also San José de Maipo and San Alfonso, below.)
Chillán (chee-YAHN') and Chillán Viejo (Old Chillán), with a combined population of some 167 thousand, a little over 400 km (240 mi.) south of Santiago on the Panamericana, is the birthplace of Chile's libertador. It is a vibrant urban center with a fascinating history of upheaval, political and natural both, and so long a popular leisure travel destination for Chilean and foreign visitors alike.
Some 78 km (47 mi.) eastward, toward the hamlet of Las Trancas, the world-class Termas de Chillán Ski and Spa Resort nestles at the base of Volcán Chillán, the rim of its cone at 3122 msnm (10,240 ft above sea level). Clearly in a class of its own in central Chile , Termas (hot springs) de Chillán is arguably the most engaging among Chile's skiing destinations.
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In addition to its 29 carefully groomed runs and nine lifts over 10 thousand hectares (24 thousand acres) of ski terrain, Termas offers snow-boarding runs and snow-mobile circuits, as well as dog-sledding behind Alaskan malamutes and ski schooling for adults and children alike. Other services include restaurants and bars, a fitness gym and squash courts, a heated outdoor pool, and a large, covered, climate-controlled hot springs pool and full-service spa. With the exception of a final few winding, ripio (gravel) kilometers out of the hamlet of Las Trancas, the road from Chillán to the stunning resort is a good one through lushly cultivated Valle Las Trancas. |
 Gran Hotel Nevado, Termas De Chillán |
Among the more remote skiing opportunities is one just under 100 km (60 mi., all but the final 15 km/nine mi. paved) east of Los Angeles, on the Panamericana some 105 km (60 mi.) south of Chillán. Within the Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja the Club de Esqui Los Angeles maintains a ski lift and modest facilities on the untrammeled slopes of Volcán Antuco (2985 msnm, 9790 feet above sea level). Visitors are welcome.
Temuco, another 168 km (101 mi.) south of Los Angeles, is one of Chile's largest urban centers (pop. 232 thousand-plus) and capital of the IX Región de la Araucanía. Founded only in 1881, it is also one of the country's youngest cities. Evidence of Mapuche heritage is strong here. A critical treaty between this powerful indigenous people and the young Chilean government was signed on Cerro Ñielol in 1881. Home to several hundred thousand Mapuche descendents, the area is still referred to colloquially as La Frontera (The Frontier). Several of Chile 's most magnificent Parques Nacionales lie to the east of Temuco with exciting skiing among their amenities. The town of Curacautín (koo-rah-cow-TEEN', Meeting Rock, 154 km/92 mi. west of Temuco) is the western jump-off point for all. In the winter and spring, skiing the slopes of the volcano can be a breathtaking experience.
Parque Nacional Conguillío (kohn-gwee-YEE'-oh, "Settled Among the Pines", about 90 km/54 mi. east of Temuco via Curacautín) includes still-smoking Volcán Llaima looming in its ominous magnificence to the west. ( Llaima erupted ten times in the 20 th century, the last in 1994, then again in April, 2003.) Few vistas anywhere are more inspiring than this perpetually snow-capped and sometimes snow-covered volcano mirrored in the dark stillness of Lago Conguillío. If a condor deigns to honor you with its presence, your visit to central Chile is complete. The Centro de Esquí Las Araucarias is a small, but well-equipped facility on the western base of the volcano.
Dominating the southern realms is the Volcán Lonquimay with the Centro de Esquí Volcán Lonquimay and the Centro de Esquí Los Arenales de Lonquimay. In the winter and spring, skiing the slopes of the volcano can be a breathtaking experience.
Still farther south, the well-established resort town of Villarica and younger, upstart Pucón lie beside Lago Villarica, the soul of Chile's awe-inspiring lakes region, its still, dark water reflecting the perfect cone of Volcán Villarica (2840 msnm, 9315 feet above sea level). There are ski lifts on the slopes of Volcán Villarica, operating in the winter and early spring, but other than the rudimentary Refugio Villarica, on-site facilities are relatively primitive. Arrangements to ski must be made in advance at the Centro de Ski Villarica-Pucón, based in the Gran Hotel Pucón.
Next month, in the third of our "Skiing Chile This Summer" series, we'll take you to challenging slopes even farther south, including a locale overlooking the Straits of Magellan.
"A Meal Without Wine Is A Day Without Sunshine" II
Valle del Maipo, virtually surrounding Santiago, Región Metropolitana
Chile is divided into 13 Regiónes Adminstrativas, including the Región Metropolitana, each with a capital or principal city as its hub. In day-to-day conversation, most of the Regiones are only infrequently referred to by name, much as states in the U.S. or provinces in Canada might not be.These 13 Regiones Administrativas should not be confused with the 13 arbitrarily identifiable wine regions.
 Valle del Maipo |
Despite Santiago's growth and rapid consumption of open space, a number of close-in vineyards have avoided being uprooted. Presently, the Valle del Maipo wine region comprises 38 viñas, virtually surrounding Chile's capital of Santiago and stretching to the southwest to within a few km of the Pacific coastline. Santiago was founded in 1541 and so understandably several of these venerable vineyards are among the oldest in the country. This region is regarded with great respect as it is considered the heart of Chile's wine-making tradition. Fine Cabernet Sauvignon is grown on over 60% of over 10,500 hectares (25,200 acres) here. Others varieties include Merlot and the exquisite Camenère, as well as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. |
A Closer Look
The viñas of the Valle del Maipo on the regional Ruta del Vino (RV) are below, along with a few others with interesting histories and tasteful websites.
Carmen (RV) www.carmen.cl (new website under construction) The oldest of Chilean wine "houses", Viña Carmen was named by its founder in honor of his wife. It operates in the Valle Casablanca, to the west of Santiago, as well as the Valles del Curicó and del Rapel, farther south. (See also "Carmenère" below).
Concha y Toro (RV) www.conchaytoro.com and www.conchaytorousa.com. Long recognized internationally, CyT holds over 4500 hectares (10,800 acres) among 21 vineyards throughout the principal valleys of Chile.
Santa Carolina (RV) www.santacarolina.cl. Emerging in 1875 and named after the founder's wife the original wine cellar of this viña is still used and is now a National Monument.
Santa Rita (RV) www.santarita.cl, Tarapacá (RV) www.tarapaca.cl (This site includes a great enological glossary so you can correctly throw around descriptive words like "body" and "bouquet", "fruity" and "velvety").
Undurraga (RV) www.undurraga.cl Established in 1885, this viña was the first in Chile to export to the U.S., its first shipment sent in 1903. Today under management of the fifth generation of the Undurraga family, residents in more than 60 countries on five continents today enjoy this label.
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How to Visit Eight Rutas del Vino (Wine Circuits) meander among six lush river valleys. Four of these routes are in the central region, dominating the country's enviable agricultural industry. Three of the routes are to the south of Santiago, one is to the north. Member viñas are designated "RV" above. Keep in mind that not all viñas in each region are included in their region's Rutas del Vino. Of those viñas not on a Ruta del Vino, some welcome visitors; others, for whatever reason, do not. Furthermore, the eight Rutas del Vino do not cover all twelve wine regions. |
 Valle del Maipo |
Beyond the Viñas
Opportunities to explore the Valle del Maipo from Santiago include single-day or overnight hiking and horseback riding, kayaking and white-water rafting. The Maipo River canyon, under one and a half hour's drive from downtown, has long been a retreat for city-weary Santiaguinos drawn by its white waters and rugged mountainscapes. It has emerged as an outdoor recreation center with a burgeoning infrastructure catering to adventuresome visitors from beyond Chile as well, thanks in part to ecologically conscious entrepreneurs, locally rooted, internationally trained.
Once clear of the congestion of Santiago 's southeast comuna of La Florida, it's barely 15 km (nine mi.) to a half-century into the past, San José de Maipo, exuding inexorable Andean charm.
Cascada de Las Animas, near tiny San Alfonso, about ten km (six mi.) south of San José de Maipo, is a 3500-hectare (8400 acre) recreation complex designed for genuine Andean adventure travel. Operated by an entrepreneurial young Chilean couple with experience and expertise that belie their years, one-day trips include treks on horseback or on foot, both of which get up into condor country, another to Termas de Colina, and a 16-km (ten mi.) Class 3 rafting run on the Río Maipo. All include lunch and all are condensed enough to allow participants to return to Santiago in time for dinner.
Cascada Expediciones, San José de Maipo www.cascada-expediciones.com
Next issue: Valle Aconcagua, Valle Casablanca, and Valle San Antonio, V Región Valparaíso, with "A Closer Look" at each.
 Museum of Fine Arts, Santiago |
Chile's vibrant cosmopolitan capital is the principal port of entry for the great majority of visitors. Many leisure travelers are headed elsewhere in the country, but Santiago is indeed a destination unto itself. Among its many cultural and historic highlights is the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (formerly known as the Palacio de Bellas Artes), its architecture copied from Paris' inconic Petit Palais. Located north of Cerro Santa Lucía, within the Parque Forestal, the institution exhibits early 20 th century fine arts (bellas artes), Western European and Chilean. In addition to the fine permanent exhibits,
visitors to Santiago often stumble onto extraordinary temporary
shows housed here. As example, an uncommon Auguste
Rodin retrospective is currently on show through 07 August
05. In addition, works by North American artist Frank
Stella are on exhibit through 26 June 05. |
Meanwhile, a small exhibit of oils and drawings from the 40s and 50s by Chilean artist Roberto Matta (1911-2002), as well as the historic documentary on his life and times, "The Eye of a Surrealist", filmed in France and Italy, is at the Galería AMS Marlborough (Av. Nueva Costanera 3723, Vitacura) through 28 June 05.
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A number of new mid- and upper-level hotels are being added this year to the inventory of accommodations in Chile in response to growing demand by commercial and leisure travelers both.
Radisson, adding to its well-received Radisson Plaza Santiago and Radisson Royal Santiago in the nation's capital, is now operating new properties in northern coastal cities of Antofagasta and Iquique, both important Pacific ports. The Radisson Antofagasta, with 140 rooms, is located overlooking the Pacific Ocean in the city's most exclusive residential area. The 78-room Radisson Iquique is within easy walking distance of both the beach and the city center. Each is the only hotel in its respective city to offer wireless Internet access in all guestrooms.
Chile's ultra-luxe hotel group, Explora, caterer to upscale adventure travelers, will open its third hotel in early 2006 on remote Rapa Nui (Isla de Pascua [Easter Island]), renowned worldwide for its towering stone statues steeped in mystery, the moais. Located on five hectares (12 acres) some eight km (five mi.) from the island's only town, Hanga Roa, the 20-room resort will be constructed primarily with local materials, stone and scarce wood. Explora operates the Hotel Larache in San Pedro de Atacama and the Hotel Salto Chico in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. www.explora.com
Accommodations in Chile range from the literally thousands of inexpensive hostales, hosterías, and residenciales in the smallest pueblos to a cadre of world-class full-service hotels, both in urban centers and outlying resort destinations, the high quality of which often surprises the most experienced traveler in South America.
 Cameron Díaz sand boarding, Photo from www.sandboard.cl |
Celebrities in Chile Cameron Díaz Dune-Surfing in the Atacama Si! She was indeed, "sand boarding" in the dead of summer on a "Venomous Freerider" down the slippery side of a tall dune in what is considered the driest place on earth. When? OK, it was last year. (We just learned about it; our papparrazzi are a little slow.) Why? For an MTV "Trippin'" episode aired this year. "Charlie's Angels" buddy Drew Barrymore was also part of the gang. And they all went to Patagonia, as well. http://www.mtv.com/onair/dyn/trippin/episode.jhtml?episodeID=86205 |
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Dear Kids: Yep, this is a condor -- a vulture, not a predator -- and we've seen several of them, but only from a distance. Their bodies can be around 4 ft. long, their wingspan 12 ft! Apparently, thanks to a tunnel-like opening the diameter of a human finger on either side of their huge beaks that enables their systems to extract oxygen from thin air, they can cruise as high as 40 thousand feet. Uncle Charlie and Aunt Sue |
 Cóndor, National Bird |
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One of Chile's tastiest main dishes where the principal
ingredient is not meat or fish is humitas (oo-MEE'-tahs), made by
grating fresh white corn (choclo) and mixing it into a paste with
fried onions, and seasoned with basil, salt, and pepper. It is wrapped in
corn husks and dropped into boiling water to cook. Another popular dish is
porotos (beans) granados (poh-ROH'-tohs grah-NAH'-dohs),
a healthy combination of beans, squash and corn. Pastel de choclo
(corn pastry) is a corn and meat casserole, topped with
sugar.
(Adapted without permission from "Culture Shock Chile",
by Susan Roraff and Laura Camacho, Graphic Arts Center Publishing Company,
Portland, Oregon, USA)
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Trivia: Fewer and fewer Chileans smoke and the Ministerio de Salud regularly reminds them that smoking kills. Nevertheless, it's not banned in public areas and few smokers will ask you if you mind if they smoke. So, unless you're allergic to cigarette smoke, then you must simply deal with it.
alameda (ah-lah-MAY'-dah) tree-lined road, avenue (after the
alamo tree).Note: Santiago's major artery, Avenida Libertador
Bernardo O'Higgins, is known as the Alameda.
avenida
(ah-vay-NEE'-dah) avenue
barrio (BAH'-ree-oh) neighborhood
(See also "comuna")
calle (CAH'-yay):
street
comuna (koh-MOO'-nah) "administrative" neighborhood,
urban "borough"
costanera (koh-stah-NAY'-rah) waterside
roadway or walkway
paseo (pah-SAY'-oh) alley; pedestrian
street; promenade
modismos (moh-DEEZ'-mohz) para
Junio slang for June:
choro (CHOH'-roh) "cool"
("neat", "great", as in "favorable")
dije ( DEE '-hay)
nice
June 7, Corpus Christi, is officially observed on the Monday preceding the actual date.
The Festivity of San Pedro is held on the last Monday of June in fishing communities all along the coast in honor of the patron saint of fishermen.
Festival de La Tirana, three days in July, a colorful event with deep Hispanic/Incan historical roots held in the village of La Tirana (70 km/42 mi.) from Iquique.
Assumption Day is officially observed on 15 August.
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"A toast to wine, women and everything that gets better with time." If you are one of the three people in North America that has not heard of, much less seen, the wonderful little Oscars-honored movie, "Sideways" , we join legions of critics and viewers to heartily recommend it. Warm, upbeat and frequently laugh-out-loud funny, "Sideways" has nothing to do with Chile, but the wine country of northern California much of which is very fairly comparable to conversely similar Chilean latitudes plays the fifth principal character. This film has been so widely popular that Chilean vintners have reported a clear spike in demand for the Chilean versions of the California varietals that play so prominently throughout. |
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Book of the Month There are travel publications and then there are publications that enhance travel. Here's our recommended Book of the Month: "Tasting Chile", Daniel Joelson, Hippocrene Books, Inc., NY, NY, 2004 "Tasting Chile" puts the native cuisine into context by describing staple ingredients and the influences other countries and cultures have had upon it. These exotic ingredients are described and substitutes are provided so that every recipe may be prepared in a [North American] kitchen." (Dust jacket, "Tasting Chile") |
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Never go on trips with anyone you do not love. --- Ernest Hemingway
Chile and its people look forward to welcoming you today to the wonders of their yesterdays, to the excitement of their tomorrows.
Archeology. Astronomy. Birding. Indigenous People Visiting. Wine Circuit Touring. Golfing. Tennis. Hot Spring Soaking. Spas. Fjord Cruising. Yacht Sailing. Air Touring. Hot Air Ballooning. Mountain Biking. Climbing. Hiking. Trekking. Mountaineering. Canoeing. Kayaking. Whitewater Rafting. Diving. Paragliding. Skiing. Heliskiing. Camping. Fishing. Horseback Riding.
Chile has it all!
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Chile
(Chilean Tourism Promotion Corporation)
1732
Massachusetts Avenue NW 20036
Washington DC
1 866 YES CHILE (937
2445)
www.visitchile.org
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