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Temperatures throughout Chile start to creep back up this month. Santiago averages 10C (50F) in August. In Punta Arenas, however, at the bottom of the country, it still hovers around freezing, while in Arica, up against the border with Peru, it is always springtime
Last month, we introduced el Norte Grande (the Big North), extending northward from Antofagasta, just south of the Tropic of Capricorn, along the western edge of Bolivia to the southern extremities of Peru. This month, we offer a look at el Norte Chico (the Little North), extending roughly between urban Santiago and Valparaíso to Antofagasta. Traveling northward through the Norte Chico is a gradual introduction to the renowned deserts farther north.
This region boasts some of our globe's most constantly clear skies and renowned astronomical enterprises from around the world have established - and continue to establish - highly advanced observatories here to peer light years back into the mysteries of the universe. A number of these intriguing facilities, readily accessible, welcome visitors.
We are always appreciative of the e-mailed comments and suggestions from our readers! Please keep them coming. Our favorite for July was from "Ttfuzz": "Today it was 115 degrees here in Arizona. We want to come. Please send airfare. Thanks."
Bienvenidos a Chile!
Issue 7 /
August 2005
Barren Heights Under a Zillion Stars - The observatories
The area to the west beyond La Serena and Coquimbo begins to exude an aura of mystique difficult to pinpoint. The quiet Valle del Elqui is comprised of incongruous diversity, with vineyards yielding the Muscatel grape for Chile 's famous pisco, the birthplace of Nobel Prize-winning poet Gabriela Mistral and a sector popular with knowledgeable birdwatchers. Here, too, are the mystical communities of Cochiguaz.
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To the north, sea-lions and bottle-nose dolphins share their offshore habitats with those of the Humboldt penguin, one of the northernmost regions in which it lives, all under the stirring phenomenon of the camachaca. Without the drama of the Atacama in the north or of Torres del Paine in the south, the surrounding cerros topped by silent world-renowned astronomical observatories are among Chile 's lesser-known leisure travel treasures. Less than ten km northeast of Vicuña (60 km/36 mi. east of La Serena), the Observatorio Cerro Mamalluca provides an opportunity to observe the stars directly. www.mamalluca.org |
 Tololo observatory in winter |
Although some of the highly sophisticated observatories elsewhere in the region are accessible to the public on a limited basis, they do not offer the opportunity to look out at the skies per se , as observations are transcribed into computer-generated read-outs.
Astronomical consortiums from all over the world have
converged on this region to establish their respective research centers.
Why are telescopes located where they are? As explained by North American
Dr. Alan B. Whiting, Research Associate, Observatorio Interamericano Cerro
Tololo:
"For optical astronomy, one wants transparency, that is, clear
skies; and good seeing, that is, stable air (so the stars don't twinkle
while you're trying to get a good look at them). In a very general way,
for transparency one goes to the Doldrums, at latitude about 30 degrees
north and south, where the air [that] is heated and rises over the Equator
finally descends, emptied of moisture. For 'good seeing', it helps to be
on a mountain with nothing but sea upwind for a few thousand miles, so the
air flow can stabilize.
"You want altitude, when you can get it, to get above as much of the haze and disturbance of the atmosphere as you can. However, too much altitude generally means strong winds (and attendant twinkling stars), as well as much more money required to build, operate and maintain telescopes."
A visit to the Observatorio Interamericano Cerro Tololo (approx. 80 km southwest of La Serena, 38 km on a rough, steep road), an extraordinary complex of astronomical research, calls for dedication, planning, even a little research. At the outset, know that here at this highly sophisticated center the skies are not observed directly, eye into a giant tube pointed upward. All images and data are computer-read and transferred to the scientist humans. That being clear, this can be an enlightening visit for anyone with serious interest in astronomy. www.ctio.noao.edu/
Vast National Parks & Tiny Caletas - El Norte Chico
Sara Wheeler, in her delightful "Travels in a Thin Country", calls el Norte Chico the "transition zone". Its landscape is varied, rugged and arid, though sculpted with isolated verdant valleys carved by ríos and esteros crossing the low coastal range to the west of the grand Andes.
At Papudo (pah-POOH'-doh, 75 km/45 mi. north of Valparaíso), site of the Combate de Papudo, a decisive naval victory over Spain in 1865, the coastal road becomes an eastward hop of 15 km to the Panamericana. At this rather forlorn intersection, the cosmopolitan sophistication of Santiago, Valpo and Viña del Mar, to the south, seem much farther away than they actually are.
The linked urban centers of Coquimbo (coh-KEEM'-boh) and La Serena (say-RAY'-nah) and nearby Valle del Elqui (EHL'-kee) are the focal points of El Norte Chico. The other principal towns - Ovalle, Vallenar, Copiapó, and Chañaral (oh-VI'-yay, vah-yay-NAHR', coh-pee-ah-POH', chah-nyah-RAHL'), all have their respective sites of interest.
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Northward from Papudo, the Panamericana quickly reaches the coastline and meanders alongside it for over 150 km (90 mi.), brushing past dozens of oceanside caletas with captivating names like Pichidangui (pee-chee-dahn-GEE') and Huentelauquén (wen-tay-lao-KEN'). Pristine beaches, some with names, others without, are mostly devoid of all but the occasional car or tent. Then the Panamericana angles inland toward Ovalle and stays out of sight of the ocean until half an hour or so south of the coastal urban complex of Coquimbo/La Serena. |
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Damas Island, north of la Serena, Sea Lion
colony Emblematic, perhaps, of myriad fishing hamlets along Chile's over 2000 kilometers of Pacific coastline between Arica and Isla Grande de Chiloé, is Los Molles (MOH'-yays), peacefully isolated on a narrow point that creates a cove quiet enough for boats to moor safely offshore. Other than a handful of small houses and shops, a few ramshackle weekend or summertime retreats, and a modest restaurant, there's not much here. It's the rocky point alive with its resident seabirds and an ancient park bench overlooking the beachfront that makes it the attractive antithesis that it is to larger established balnearios. Discovering away-from-everything places like Los Molles is much of what adventure travel in Chile is all about.
Each of the region's four widely scattered National Parks is worthy of a visit.
Oceanside Parque Nacional Bosque de Fray Jorge (BOSS'-kay FRY HOHR'-hay, Friar George's Wood), a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, west of Ovalle. Named after an early 17 th century Franciscan monk, Fray Jorge, who used wood from here to build his Iglesia San Francisco de La Serena - some 100 km to the north! - this park's dramatic locale is a big part of its appeal as it rises from the Pacific coastline to over 665 msnm at its highest point.
PN Llanos de Challe (CHAH'-yay), also oceanside, northwest of Vallenar, is best known for its "flowering desert" when periodic rains have been sufficient. It is also the home of the enigmatic guanaco and the outrageously cute zorro, the latter curious, trusting and highly photogenic.
PN Nevado de Tres Cruces (nay-VAH'-doh, KROO'-says, "Three Crosses"), the largest, is west of Copiapó, a relatively new national park that promises to become one of Chile's most exciting adventure travel destinations. Although its larger sector is crossed by truck-trafficked Ruta 31 between Copiapó and the frontier with Argentina , the park is remote - and the "highway" is unpaved.
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PN Pan de Azúcar (ah-ZOO'-kahr, "Sugar Loaf") directly north of Chañaral (between Copiapó and Antofagasta), is arguably one of Chile's more charming national parks. Visitors may commune with otters and sea lions, cormorants and pelicans and Humbolt penguins, along 30 km of Pacific coastline. Here, too, the mystical camanchaca nurtures uncommon cacti. Off-shore Isla Pan de Azúcar is a 100-hectare wildlife refuge with restricted access, but fishermen will take visitors out to it from Caleta Pan de Azúcar, little more than a seasonal hamlet for tourism. (Photo:Fray Jorge National Park from www.turistel.cl ) |
All but Nevado de Tres Cruces, stretching along the frontier with Argentina, are easily accessible. Each offers its own distinct topography. Fauna and flora abound. Long tracts are easily drivable without a four-wheel-drive vehicle and all are well-managed by courteous, knowledgeable resident CONAF (Corporación Nacional Forestal) guardaparques. www.conaf.cl
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Navigating the CONAF website Under "Turismo/Parques", click
"ver" ("see"). |
"A
Day Without Wine Is A Day Without Sunshine" IV
Valle del Elqui and Valle Limarí, IV Región de
Coquimbo
Chile's northernmost wine region, Valle de Elqui (or Valle del Río Elqui, EHL'-kee) reaches from the eastern outskirts of La Serena (475 km/285 mi. north of Santiago) westward past the town of Vicuña, the culture of the Andean foothills personified. It is one of the country's newest - and more improbable - wine regions, an oasis of mystical charm virtually bisecting the otherwise rather austere Norte Chico. Although not Chile's smallest wine region, it is certainly the loneliest, with only one vineyard, Falernia.
Some 80 km (48 mi.) to the south, Valle Limarí, centered on the town of Ovalle, comprises six producers: Agua Tierra, Casa Tamaya, Francisco de Aguirre, Luis Soler, Ocho Tierras, and Tabalí. Its western edge flanks the Panamericana highway not far from the oceanside Parque Nacional Bosque de Fray Jorge. A non-contiguous sector of this region clings to remote hillsides overlooking the Embalse Puclaro. www.winesofchile.org (audio)
 Francisco de Aguirre vineyards near
Ovalle |
A Closer Look Of the 451 hectares (1080 acres) in the Valle de Elqui under cultivation, fully 90% is planted in reds, predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon with a smattering of Merlot, Pinot Noir and the rapidly emerging Carmenère. The remainder produces Chardonnay and Syrah. Still an incipient segment of Chile 's huge wine industry, this region's consistently high quality yield to date promises viable participation in the very near future. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carmenère also reign supreme in the Valle Limarí, representing here, too, 90% of the region's 1741 hectares (4178 acres). Like its neighbor to the north, Chardonnay and Syrah make up the other ten percent. |
These relatively remote wine regions are not yet part of the Rutas del Vino (Wine Circuits).
Exploring Valles de Elqui and Limarí , south to north
The requisite central plaza, several unassuming restaurants on or near the plaza and several very economical "hotels" and hostales, a 17 th century church and a modest museum, together welcome tourism to the provincial capital of Ovalle, 380 km (228 mi) north of Valparaíso. Coastal Parque Nacional Bosque de Fray Jorge (above) lies to the west. To the east, Valle del Encanto (VAH'-yay del ehn-CAHN'-toh, "Enchanted Valley"), a National Monument since 1972, is considered the north's most important center of prehistoric culture. Santuario Natural Pichasca (pee-CHASS' -kah), to the northeast, is the site of some of the oldest archeological findings to date in this region, but the nearby pueblo of Pichasca, once an Incan center of some note, might be of greater interest if only for its blue-painted adobe church.
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Chile's second largest urban center, La Serena (90 km/54 mi north of Ovalle) is the country's second oldest city, founded in 1544. With several kilometers of beachfront forming the gracefully curving shoreline of the Bahía de Coquimbo, it is for many the jewel of the northern central coastline - and a wanna-be Vi ñ a del Mar norte. Ubiquitous bougainvillea, hibiscus, and poinsettia give the city a touch of tropical atmosphere. Coquimbo (coh-KEEM'-boh, "Place of Tranquil Waters") is virtually adjacent to La Serena on the southwest. Over the years, the port of Coquimbo and its neighbor to the south, Guayacán, gradually merged into one - and today they are referred to in one breath together with La Serena, the two or three kilometers between them notwithstanding. Coquimbo covers most of its namesake peninsula that juts into the Pacific between the Bahía de Coquimbo to the north and the Bahía Herradura de Guayacán to the south; Guayacán and its smaller neighboring communities occupy the neck of the peninsula. Its rough-and-tumble ocean port atmosphere is deceiving. Its heritage is that of humble fisherfolk; its patina as a port town is new. |
 Valle del Elqui near La Serena |
Unquestionably one of most picturesque sidetreks anywhere in Chile is into the Valle del Río Elqui. Well-paved and -maintained Ruta 41 meanders eastward along the southern banks of Río Elqui, with its chirimoya and papaya orchards, vineyards providing the grapes for pisco, and past engaging Algarrobito with its ancient olive trees. The charming town of Vicuña enjoys a touch of class thanks to a fine, small hotel and restaurant on the edge town as well as another just off the main plaza. There is little "to do" here per se, but this is the culture of the Andean foothills personified. Farther east, Monte Grande (not to be confused with Monte Patria, to the east of Ovalle), this childhood home of Nobel Prize-winning poet Gabriela Mistral has the aura of a pilgrimage site.
When shopping in Chile, one item stands out above all others: the gemstone lapis lazuli. Small amounts are mined in Siberia (Russia) and deposits have been found as widely as Argentina and Burma, Canada and the U.S. (Colorado). However, this unsung opaque stone, ranging in color from brilliant, to medium royal, to dark blue, is mined today primarily in Chile and, ironically, Afghanistan. Happily, although relatively rare, it is not prohibitively expensive. Its name comes from the Latin word for "stone"- "lapis" - and the Persion word for "blue" - "lazhward" - the root of the Arabian, and now Spanish, word for "blue", "azul" ... and the English word "azure".
Its history stretches back many millennia. Archeologists believe it to be one of the first stones to be used as jewelry. Lapis lazuli was one of the stones in the "Breastplate of Judgement" of Aaron, described in the Bible (Exodus: xxviii, 15-30). In fact, l apis lazuli was traded in the biblical city of Ur as far back as 4000 B.C. Beads, rings, seals and scarabs as well as statuettes were crafted of the mystical blue stone, introduced to Europe by Alexander the Great. Then called "ultramarine" - "from beyond the seas" -- there is clear evidence of its being cherished throughout the Mediterranean, worn by peoples of ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, and Persia, as well as of Greece and Rome.
Marco Polo wrote:"There is a mountain in that region [of Afghanistan] where the finest azure [lapis lazuli] in the world is found. It appears in veins like silver streaks."
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The blue pigment used by Grand Old Master painters was often simply pulverized ultramarine. Lapis lazuli was not re-created artificially until the 1830s. "Chile's tradition with lapis lazuli dates back to the time of the Chimu tribes that lived in the northern part of the country. In the Ovalle area of Chile, at an altitude of 12,000 feet, rests the unique mineral vein of lapis lazuli. Because of the extreme conditions this site can only be mined during the summer months. (Photo: Jewelry made of Lapizlazuli, from www.artesaniasdechile.cl) |
"From this mine, Morita Gil receives this semi-precious stone, which she and her team of expert artisans then transform into works of art. Each work displays the stone's blue color, yet are uniquely personalized by the amount, form and glint of the calcite. For more than 30 years, Morita Gil has created the gifts that Chileans offer to world royalty, and even for the Pope.
"Today, Gil continues this tradition with her daughter, Carolina. Morita Gil's name has become a famous brand, known for its sophisticated works of art and jewelry that, in addition to lapis lazuli, incorporates other Chilean stones such as jasper, malachite and agate." (Chile 2002, InternationalReports.com, The Washington Times)
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With few exceptions, park-like plazas are the cultural, commercial, municipal and social nucleus of every Chilean urban center, from the tiniest hamlets to the largest cities. Santiago 's historic Centro radiates from two imposing plazas mere blocks from one another, each with its distinct atmosphere. The Plaza de la Constitución, large as it is, offers soothing respite under ample shade, a great locale for people-watching and a little historical reflection. On its west side is the main entrance to Palacio de la Moneda. Originally the royal mint, La Moneda (from "coin"), as the Palacio is known colloguially, was completed in 1805. It soon became the presidential residence, occupied as such into the mid 1950s. |
It gained international notoriety when it was bombed during General Pinochet's takeover. President Salvador Allende died there.
A few blocks to the north, the bustling Plaza de Armas, originally the Plaza Mayor, is the "cradle" of Santiago, and so, perhaps, that of Chile, originally laid out by founder Pedro de Valdívia following the traditional blueprint for Spain's new towns in "las Indias". Between 1998 and 2000, the layout of the Plaza de Armas was reorganized with fresh landscaping - to include some 100 towering Chilean palm trees - and re-worked open space that now hosts artists, street performers, photographers using old-fashioned box cameras on tripods, and shrill Evangelists. It is surrounded by imposing examples of colonial and post-colonial-era architecture.
The traffic-free paseos leading off from its sides are intriguing commercial communities unto themselves, well worth zig-zgging among the crowds and occasional street performers for budget shopping and fast food of every description. A word of caution: cross streets carry heavy traffic, including many micros with an attitude. Pedestrians must pay close attention to signal lights and anticipate impatient vehicles jumping their red to green change.
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The newest ship outfitted for visits to
Antarctica from southern Chile, Antarctic Dream, a
de-commissioned Chilean Navy vessel, is scheduled to begin service
in early November of this year. The new service, operated by
Antarctic Shipping, a Chilean firm with highly
regarded sailing experience in the southern oceans, responds to the
growing demand for cruise travel to Antarctica from Punta Arenas,
Chile, the world's closest major city to the alluring 8 th
continent. www.antarcticshipping.cl
Antarctic Shipping joins other Chilean enterprises offering leisure travel opportunities in the daunting waters where the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans meet. |
The enterprising Chilean airline, DAP, operates the only commercial aircraft, a 48-passenger de Havilland DHC-7 (Dash-7), to Antarctica for a one-day visit to King George Island off the Antarctic Peninsula from Punta Arenas. www.aereoviasdap.cl
A "fly-sail" itinerary to Antarctica was introduced in late 2003 as Antarctica XXI, an innovative option for visitors to travel by air (with DAP) directly from Punta Arenas to King George Island, with tours along the ice-bound shoreline and a return to Punta Arenas by sea aboard a hardy re-vamped Russian research vessel. The fly-sail itinerary is reversed on alternate dates. www.antarcticaxxi.com
Also of note, Cape Horn and its environs, covering some 4.9 million hectares (11.8 million acres) was recently officially designated as a Chilean Biosphere Reserve.
 Artisan in Easter Island |
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Wander into any food shop throughout Chile and you'll find any number of bins of fresh bread, pan (PAHN). Prior to the arrival of French and German immigrants, "...Chileans largely consumed corn and wheat tortillas, which are of indigenous origin." (Tasting Chile , Daniel Joelson) Among the most common: Pan francés (frahn-SEHZ'), also call marraqueta (mah-rah-KAY'-tah) or batido (bah-TEE'-doh), is not unlike a small baguette. Pan amasado (ah-may-SAH'-doh) is a simple roll, ubiquitous particularly beyond larger cities. Pan de molde (day MOHL'-day) is the closest to soft "sandwich" loaf bread, most commonly available in supermercados (supermarkets). Note that even the smallest grocery store may call itself a supermercado. |
 Pan francés |
Hallullas (hah-YOO'-yahs) are round, flat loaves of white bread. A sopaipilla (of Middle Eastern origin) is a fritter-like bread based on zapallo (zah-PAI'-yoh, pumpkin) often served dusted with powdered sugar. Native to the island of Chiloé is the chapalele (chah-pah-LAY'-lay), made of wheat flour and potatoes.
balneario (bahl-nay-AH'-ree-oh)...seaside resort (sometimes
used as synonymous with caleta )
caleta
(cah-LAY'-tah)...cove, fishing hamlet
camachaca
(cah-mah-CHAH'-kah)...precipitive fog, heavy mist, blocked from
eastward migration by mountains, a southern Pacific Ocean
phenomenon
embalse (ehm-BAL'-say)...dam
estero
(ess-TAY'-roh)...estuary, large creek or stream
guardaparque
(gwahr-dah-PAHR'-kay)...park ranger
llanos
(YAH'-nohs)...plains
río (REE'-yoh)...river
Mas comida (More food):
arroz
(ah-ROHSS')...rice
asado (ah-SAH'-doh)...grill, barbeque
(see also parillada )
azeituna (ah-zay-TOO'-
nah)...olive
carne (CAHR'-nay)...meat (sometimes, not always,
interpreted as to include fowl)
cordero
(cohr-DAY'-roh)...lamb
huevo
(WAY'-voh)...egg
jamón (hah-MONE')...ham
mariscos
(mah-REES'-kohs)...shellfish
palta (PAHL'-tah) .avocado;
used routinely as a garnish on many sandwiches, sometimes sliced, often as
a paste. ( "Palta" is of Quechua derivation)
papas fritas
(PAH'-pahs FREE'-tahs)...French fried potatoes ( "Papa" is
of Quechua derivation)
Modismos
Cuanto saleor
Cuanto vale(KWAHN'-toh SAH'-lay, VAH '-lay)?....How much is
it?
Vale...receipt
luca or
lucretia...1000 pesos
gabriela...5000
pesos
arturo...10,000 pesos
Names are derived from the historic personages on the respective one-, five-, and ten-thousand peso bills: Lucretia xxx , Gabriela Mistral, and Arturo xxx
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Assumption Day, 15 August, is an officially observed holiday. Los Jaivas touring the US in September
11 de Septiembre is the date (in 1973) of the overthrow of Salvador Allende, observed during the Pinochet regime, no longer observed as a holiday, but "reserved" as a day of quiet remembrance. |
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Fiestas Patrias, 18-19 September
Chile 's Independence Day, 18 September, and Army Day, 19 September,
are the nation's most important officially observed non-religious
holidays. Celebrations abound throughout the country.
Chile issued a
"Declaration of [Temporary] Independence from Spain" on September 18,
1810, resulting in a government by la Patria Vieja. However,
Spain re-conquered its Chilean territory in 1814 and ruled briefly again
as la Reconquista. In early 1817, Generals O'Higgins and San
Martin led their army across the Andes from Argentina to deliver a
decisive defeat at the Battalla de Chacabuco. The Second - and lasting -
Declaration of Independence was issued on January 12, 1818, although
fighting continued sporadically and, indeed, tenacious royalists held out
in the south until 1826.
Día de la Raza , 12 October (Columbus Day), is officially observed on the Monday preceding the actual date.
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Al Cine (At the Movies) - La Fiebre del Loco (Loco Fever)
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When authorities briefly lift a ban on fishing the loco - an endangered shellfish allegedly with aphrodisiac powers - divers and fishermen, businessmen and prostitutes, all descend on a small fishing village in search of the valuable delicacy. The mood of the sleepy town becomes frantic, with everyone trying to cash in on the loco catch. The craziness that the loco creates in the village quickly works its way into the audience, taking viewers along on an enjoyable journey in this delightful film by the director of the Chilean smash hit, Machuca. (Loco, of course, means "crazy".) Print with English sub-titles readily available. With Tamara Acosta, Best Supporting Actress, Cartagena Film Festival 2002. |
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There are travel publications and then there are publications that enhance travel. Here's our recommended Book of the Month: Born in Blood and Fire - A Concise History of Latin America, John Charles Chasteen, W.W. Norton & Co., NY , NY , 2001 "This amazing history of Latin America will delight any reader. Fully informed by the latest scholarship, this cleverly written survey spans six centuries and covers twenty countries. . This is a story of despair and hope, the processes of conquest and colonization, race mixing and class construction, revolution and republic formation, and the elusive quests for sustained economic growth and political and social equality." (Dust jacket, "Born in Blood and Fire...") Intelligently integrating the colonization of South America and the parallel development of its modern nations, it is, above all, eminently readable, the perfect companion for travel in the southern regions of the western hemisphere. |
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Travel in the younger sort is a
part of education; in the elder, a part of experience.
---
Francis Bacon (1521-1626) .---
Chile and its people look forward to welcoming you today to the wonders of their yesterdays, to the excitement of their tomorrows.
Archeology. Astronomy. Birding. Indigenous People Visiting. Wine Circuit Touring. Golfing. Tennis. Hot Spring Soaking. Spas. Fjord Cruising. Yacht Sailing. Air Touring. Hot Air Ballooning. Mountain Biking. Climbing. Hiking. Trekking. Mountaineering. Canoeing. Kayaking. Whitewater Rafting. Diving. Paragliding. Skiing. Heliskiing. Camping. Fishing. Horseback Riding.
Chile has it all!
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Washington DC
1 866 YES CHILE (937
2445)
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